Introduction to "A GEM Lost to Time"

I have acquired several GEM single edge razors which date from 1912 up through the 1970's and have decided to compare them at first to their DE counterparts. These razors use old style single edge blades that are the same physical design as a window scraper, but actually sharpened and honed for use to shave. For the sake of consistency, each razor will use GEM branded stainless steel PTFE coated blades purchased from Connaught Shaving. Each review will be solely my opinion and will be based on 48 hours of growth and then 24 hours of growth. I shave my head and neck, but not my face. I have used some GEM's for the previous month to get a good feel for the razor design and technique.

GEM Featherweight History / Description

This razor was produced in the 1950's and has a plastic handle with a brass head. Overall it is fairly light in the hand without feeling cheap or like a toy. The blade is anchored in place by two notches on the ends of the safety bar and a spring loaded tab at the top of the head that pushes the blade firmly into place. With this design, there is no noticeable blade deflection while shaving.

Weight & Length Measurements

The Featherweight comes in at 1.10 ounces which is certainly on the lighter end of the spectrum, but not the lightest razor I own (PAA Bakelite slant is 0.55 ounces). Other modern razors that fall into a similar range are the RazoRock Blackhawk at 1.30 ounces and the Standard Razor at 1.65 ounces. For the sake of comparing it to a widely owned/used razor, a Gillette Slim Adjustable tips the scales at 2.50 ounces.

On the length side, the Featherweight's handle measures out at approximately 80mm which is right in the median ballpark for most razors out there. By comparison, the Merkur 34HD is about 77mm, and the Gillette Slim is 80mm.

Ergonomics Opinion

The handle is sufficiently grippy and I had no problem whatsoever getting a firm hold on the razor both times I used it. The balance of featherweight leans much more closely to the head since it is still metal as compared to the plastic handle. The head itself is a bit annoying to me because the top cap and blade angle are such that I had to take a bit steeper angle with the razor than I would have preferred given the teaching that the razor should be nearly flat against your face.

Shave Comfort & Efficiency Opinion

• 48 hour shave: Barrister & Mann Hallows 2016
• 24 hour shave: Mitchell's Wool Fat

This razor does not get particularly high marks for me on the comfort side of things. Overall it felt like I was getting a ton of blade no matter what angle the razor was presented to my head and neck. In particular, my neck was irritated from a very light and easy WTG pass, and then bloody from the XTG pass. My head was irritated as well, but survived with less damage.

On the efficiency side however, the Featherweight gets high marks while paired with my preferred stainless steel PTFE coated blade. I had no problem at all getting very close shaves in just two passes. It wasn't a comfortable two passes (with a great prep and lather), but it got the job done.

DE Comparison & Bottom Line

To me, the feathweight felt like it was in the aggressiveness ballpark of a Fatip Grande, but a bit more comfortable and easy to use. Another apt comparison would be the iKon DLC standard head.

When it comes down to it, I really did not like the overall experience with the featherweight, and will probably not be using it again. Typically I prefer middle of the road to milder razors, which would explain why I no longer use my Fatip and sold the iKon DLC Standard.

OTHER GEM REVIEWS & UPDATES:

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