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69
The surfer who saved my life
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I was but dragging yesterday at honolii beach park, my usuall spot. The swells from hurricane oho have just started building. The waves were breaking further out than usual when a good size set was coming through, when out of no where a 6-7 foot hawaiian broke smack dab in front of me, I ditch my board and the worst sound ever, a snap. I didn't feel any resestence from my board and I knew I was fucked. Luckly a surfer was right in front of me and I asked him if he can take me to shore, he didn't mind and I pulled on his leash until I can could touch ground. Red head dude with a breard if your on this subreddit thank you so much, I'll buy you 2 rounds of beers if I ever find you

EDIT: thanks for the advise dudes, iv been surfing all my life and ya i should have known conditions where to fucked and the river was pumping so the current wasn't ideal for nut dragging but fuck it i was feening to hit the water. anyways i was lucky to have one of you bros to bail me out for my mistake.

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Posted
9 years ago