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15
Small Swell Stoke Story
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Was out on lake Pacific (the Hook in Santa Cruz) today just enjoying the weather and bobbin' around on some 1-2ft bumps. The clouds had just cleared and the sun was out. The water was near 60 degrees which is beautiful for Santa Cruz. I even considered shedding the wetsuit. My wife had come along to watch from the beach and doodle/read. Everything was excellent except the swell, but I had a few buddies out with me so we were havin' a good time anyway. About two hours in, one guy decides he's gonna bail. Another decides she is going to head to the beach to chat with my wife. John and I are just shooting the shit when a wave starts to form out back, it's shaping up to be one of the biggest of the day at a whopping 2ft . I paddle out a bit to meet it, and whip around to catch it. Unfortunately I get snagged up in some kelp and end up on the crest rather than dropping in. Normally I'd just slide forward on the board, give it the power stroke and drop in, but feeling whimsical I popped up to my knees and gave it the power stroke instead. I drop in on my knees and notice my wife watching from shore, so I decide to goof around a bit. Doubting I could even do it, I popped up into a hand stand, and when I started to lose it lowered myself back down so I was sitting on my board, legs over the rails. With a big shit eating grin from having done my first handstand, I rolled backwards off my board into the water.

Awwww yeaaaah.

And I didn't even want to bother going out today. With such a shitty swell I figured I'd be better off pissin' around the house. WRONG!

Get out there and enjoy it, even if its small.

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<5'2" to 9' shapes n stuff> (Santa Cruz, CA)

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Posted
11 years ago