This post has been de-listed
It is no longer included in search results and normal feeds (front page, hot posts, subreddit posts, etc). It remains visible only via the author's post history.
Took off later than I usually would and saw a steep section infront, usually I'd pussy out and surf midface to the shoulder. Instead I bottom turned sharply, got a squirt of speed up the wave and frontside snapped the lip. The feeling of it, followed by being perched right at the top of the wave and dropping back in like a vert ramp, was glorious. Then I did it again immediatly after. Now I shall seek the steep more often.
Can't believe I've been missing out on it this whole time. Thank you for reading xxx kook
Subreddit
Post Details
- Posted
- 3 months ago
- Reddit URL
- View post on reddit.com
- External URL
- reddit.com/r/surfing/com...