I drafted the corset by taking my bust circumfrence, bust height, front bust, underbust, waist, front waist, high hip, hip, waist length, back length, and front length measurements. I broke those measurements down into the number of pieces I wanted. I spent too many hours drafting the preliminary pattern, using Inkscape. Some information in this video series (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BW_NW25AwpU) was helpful. How to use Inkscape, what measurements to take, and how to do some of the math. The video is for 18th C stays. I took the relevant info and made a corset.

The first mockup is cotton canvas and quilting cotton. The bones are zip ties. Channels are just the 5/8th inch seam allowances sewn down. The first mockup moved the soft flesh of my hips and bust toward my waist.

Second mockup is also cotton canvas and quilting cotton. Half of the bones are zip ties, the other half are 1/4in spiral steel. For the second mockup, I reduced every piece at the underbust and waist, increased every piece at the hip, let out the curve at the bust on the front pieces, and created a lacing gap in the back.

The third mockup is cotton canvas and a light, plain-woven bedsheet. The bones are 1/4in spiral steel, center front busk is 1/4in spring steel. I created bust support by reducing the 4 front pieces pieces at the underbust to eliminate the empty underbust pocket. I moved the side seams at the hip backward to balance the visible lines and curves.

The fourth mockup is heavy cotton canvas and kidskin from Tandy Leather. I didn't make any changes from the previous mockup.

The final corset is heavy twill-woven (oof) cotton and printed sheepskin from Tandy Leather. I didn't make any changes to the pattern from the last mockup, but I did sew the channels down by hand with upholstery thread and bind the visible raw edges with bias tape.

It's a bit embarrassing to type out, but I made my skirts by cutting off the 6 layers of skirts from my backup wedding gown, laying the floral lace on top, and using bias tape to sew them all together. I didn't even fix the closure from the original dress, I just cut the zipper where it needed to be, left a length of bias tape on each side, and tied the skirt closed in the back.

I made my shift (cotton muslin) by measuring incorrectly, cutting incorrectly, not understanding how material acts when cut on a curve, and finally committing to my mistakes by trying to fix them with gathers and tiny pleats and ribbons. This series (https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLNyjJVmKWu_qf2q1OvvaWeGjmKIYsFvH4) is what I was trying to follow before I realized I was too far gone. I literally couldn't recreate my shift when I tried.

To make my husband's linen shirt, I successfully followed this video series (https://youtu.be/DbSXr_0ftLk?si=qqmw_2YoibEVRY-5). I made his cravat by folding a length of linen (neck height×2 seam, by 1 yard) longways, ironing the fold, ironing all seam allowances inward, and sewing all 4 sides.

My husband drafted his waistcoat and trousers by pinning muslin on his body and making adjustments by eye. They were made with second-hand, plain-woven, light-weight wool and medium-weight interfacing. This blog post (https://vincentbriggs.blogspot.com/2019/12/fall-front-placket-tutorial.html?m=1) was instrumental to the creation of the fall front of his trousers. He followed this video (https://youtu.be/qFxtQgDj5f0?si=xPvSYrAN_N4Fpeib) to make his back pockets.

Most of these items had no business working out as well as they did.