So I've been trying to break past V10 and was able to hop into an Alber Ok livestream and ask about it. He said that one arm hang boarding doing dead hangs/lockoffs were really good. So I did that for the first time today and noticed that I am really weak in that aspect.

My campus board is at a 20 degree angle with 15mm (half pad) crimp rails on it, not incut at all so they're sloped the 20 degrees with the wall. And I can campus on them after each climbing session just fine, very controlled while doing so. But simply hanging by 1 arm on a 30mm edge (full pad for me) is impossible. Twice the size and can't even dead hang. Hell, even hanging from a 2 full pad ledge feels pretty tough.

Is this normal? Am I just overestimating what should be possible? I can do 1 arm pullups and i'd say that crimps are my strongsuit (my wall 45 degrees with mostly crimps) so I'm not sure if I just have the wrong idea of what should be possible. Is it like how some people can do a 25 pullups but not a 1 arm pullup yet others can only do 15 pullups but can do 3 1 arm pullups?