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Kai Harada does not train with hangboard!
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I've heard that the beginner grades are much harder and closer to outdoor grades but it equals out at advanced level climbing, which would make sense to me
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Competition bouldering usually isn't as fingery as that. Unfortunately competition boulder is often extremely difficult from regular climbing as it involves a lot of special dynamic moves that somewhat take away from rock climbing. It's been a controversial subject over the past few years as bouldering has gotten more and more gymnasticy