Ooooh hello again <3 I actually know that guy lol, I met him not long ago at his gym in San jose. While he doesn't climb the hardest in the world, he does climb verryyyy hard. I've seen him campus V12 lmao. It is incredible how hard he climbs with such little actual climbing experience compared to other elite climbers. Clearly he is gated by technique and applying his strengths. Obviously climbing is a technical sport but everything is connected through your fingers. I'm not actually sure what grade he climbs maximally as he mostly only climbs indoors but if he took his strengths outside and accumulated his strengths I have no doubt he would quickly climb very hard grades. However, the reason you don't see that is because I believe he is hoping to one day compete in the Olympics which is a very different style of climbing than "hard grade" climbing. I wouldn't really use this as an argument that finger strength doesn't matter when he hasn't really shown his potential, due to goal differences. Seeing him climb in person, I really really really doubt he wouldn't be able to at least climb a few V15s outside right now if that was his actual goal.

How do you not understand 😭😭😭

Would you say "push strength" is solely defined by a bench press? No! A person can have a relatively "weak" bench press but a strong dip, or a strong handstand push-up, or a strong planche for example. Just because they are weaker in one exact pushing movement (such as 20mm half crimp on a training board) doesn't mean they are "weak".

Climbers are literally doing "finger day" every training day. There is a reason why top level climbers can enter grip strength competitions and compete against people 50% heavier than them in grips we climbers don't specialize in. Strength isn't as simple as the standardized tests you are comparing it to. A person with a bench press of 225 but can do full planche pushups is a VERY strong push calisthenics athlete. A climber who struggles in half crimp but hangs more than 100% body weight in full crimp, or is an expert on 5mm edges, or can pinch juice out of a hold, is a VERY strong finger strength athlete. The truth is, V15 is impossible for someone who has 150% bodyweight hang if that's the TRUE extent of their strength, it's just fact ¯_(ツ)_/¯

?_? Why are climbers like you so obsessed with calling yourselves "weak" I don't understand. Your fingers are strong, Dave Graham's fingers are world class, he ain't weak smh. Yet you get offended to the point that you call me a moron. Such a weird climber mentality.

Why are you so salty... You keep proving my point and then getting upset I don't understand )':

Why are you saying being strong in full crimp isn't having strong fingers 😭 I measure finger strength in the strongest grip a climber has for any given hold. Yeah half crimp is the standard training method, but like you said earlier, rocks are never that standardized.

I haven't changed my metrics once, all I am merely saying is if someone hangs 150% bodyweight on a 20mm edge on their strongest grip, they aren't climbing v15. They just aren't, and you know it. I would bet 1,000,000 if they used their strengths whether it is open hand, half crimp, full crimp, they could do 100% bodyweight. Finger strength isn't just "hurdur half crimp lol" like you are trying to imply, it is whatever an individual's strongest grip is to hold them on a wall, even if it's on slopers.

Every time I have seen someone reportedly "weak" as in "hanging 150% bodyweight yet climbing v15" weak, it is always fabricated (whether on purpose or not). Maybe someone can hang 150% in half crimp, but 0 percent in full crimp. Maybe they actually have no idea how strong they are because they haven't done a hangboard routine recently. Maybe they are using 10mm edges instead of 20, and edge sizes are not standardized.

Ofc, what do I know, but it's such a weird humble brag in the climbing community where being "weak" yet climbing hard grades is super cool and looked up to but being "strong and climbing low grades" is embarrassing and frowned upon. There's definitely a very sizeable group of climbers that only talk about how weak their fingers are and it is rarely true.

What are his max finger strength metrics? Climbing strength is pretty much just finger strength and I will never listen to anyone that says otherwise. Your abdominals, back, and legs only need to be so strong before you are getting absolutely minimal climbing gains from strengthening them.

Fingers are the basis of everything. If you have "weak" fingers, it is impossible to do actual high grade climbs.

Im not strawmanning an argument, you just made my point. Just because someone isn't good at half crimp 20mm doesn't mean their fingers aren't insanely strong. Your friend doesn't hang 50% body weight and climb v15, I'm sorry ur just mathematically incorrect ¯_(ツ)_/¯