There seems to be a lot of hate for end-of-session burnout climbing on climbing subs and I want to know the reason behind this.

Many people seem to favor training fresh so that they can climb harder and send more, but is this leading to more improvement? I used to run a lot and most coaches opted to increase mileage until we were close to burnout and then decrease mileage for end-of-season racing. Time and time again this worked wonders for our team. So my question is, should climbers follow a similar routine if they want to see max improvement?

I climb every other day and recently took 4 days off and came back projecting 2 V grades higher than usual. Am I exhausting myself, or is this strategic? I fear that I wouldn’t see the same results without training as hard as I do.

I currently limit bouldering one session, rest a day, sport climb the next session with 30 minutes ARC at the end, rest a day, then repeat. I also do abs stretch daily and a hip mobility workout on off days.

I was considering adding a 4x4 at the end of my limit sessions but I want to know if that would be advantageous.

If limit bouldering is power lifting, and sport climbing/ARC/4x4 is running, a healthy balance of both seems like the best idea, right?

What do you think, how much is too much, and what does “too much” look like?