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UPDATE: Authentic ZNA40.. reassembled
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Teardown post

So I got the new board in place. Sorry, totally forgot to take reassembly photos! I will share a few pointers that I had to discover for myself during the assembly process though!

  • There is no special negative connection on the inside, so you'll have to improvise. The B- and GND connectors should both (if possible) have exposed wire in them and be pressed against the body. The area where I did this heats up when I fire the mod (not much but enough to worry me) and I don't think I can solder anything to the body of the mod, as it is a BIG heatsink.
  • I cut a thin strip of iso tape and wrapped it around the board twice where the UP/DOWN buttons are. This is to provide padding for the buttons. In the teardown you can see HoH has used some silver colored tape.

  • The board can surely take a beating. I (de)soldered stuff on there countless times and it still lit up. Get a proper soldering station, a cheap 30w solder iron with a pointy tip and lead-free solder are not the right tools for this job. A temperature controlled soldering station with a chisel tip is just perfect.

  • After seeing the short that happened on the DNA30 board, I took an extra precaution and added a small piece of iso tape to the BAT joint on the board. Hopefully this will save me from a smoking mod.

  • The plastic cover has to be carefully dremmeled out to make room for the bigger heatsink on the DNA40.

  • This is not a beginners mod and I should have practiced on a MOSFET box mod before I did this. But it somehow worked out.

And here's the star of the show:

A big thanks to /u/coyote_den and his helpful post about doing the same to a ZNA clone

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9 years ago