Yo bros and bro-ettes, just wanted to share some stoke from this kook’s epic morning session:

The salty regulars were all complaining about weak waves but I was loving some clean 2-3 foot faces at decent intervals. My first day of only dropping green waves from outside! Still can’t bottom turn for nothin’, but I could feel my paddling, positioning, wave reading, and pop up all click at once. It was a blast out there! I’ve been at it for a year and am just starting to feel like I “belong” in the line up. Fitness progressing to a point where it’s translating into skills. I’ve got miles of improvement ahead of me, but every session lately has been better than the last! Helps that winter waves aren’t kicking my ass any more, hoping I’m at a point where I can kinda handle em when they come back after dialing it in this summer!

Also I try to head out around 8am either Saturday or Sunday every week in Pismo if anyone’s trying to join and catch a coffee or something after