Having trouble deciding whether to build a fuckmachine or purchase one? Well I can tell you that building my own was a fun experience, only moderately challenging, and quite cost effective. I'd say functionally my machine is on par with the $1000~1500 models available for purchase and cost less than $200 in materials, though maybe not as cosmetically eye pleasing in its current state.

Bear in mind this is my first attempt ver1.0, I do intend on making changes, but I am not an engineer, so please forgive some of the Frankenstein-ish details. I'm just a guy that works on his own cars and fixes stuff around my house. I can replace a waterheater and install more outlets etc but would probably call in professionals for a complete furnace swap... maybe, I still might give it a try. That's the level of craftsman that I am and I found this rather simple and enjoyable to build, if you're like minded I'd recommend giving it a try.

Here I will cover 1. My design and reasons why I build this chose this layout. 2. Materials used and where to get them 3. The tools used 4. How to - build details 5. Most importantly what I learned and what I would change in making another

The Design This is a motorized flywheel design with a pushrod that moves a cart back and forth on 2 parallel linear rods and bearings. The main "Thrusting Rod" is mounted to the cart on the opposite side to the bearings and has a throw of 2" to 5 1/2" along the linear rods. I chose this design because the 2 parallel rods and bearings layout provides better stability and structural integrity for higher torque and speed applications compared to a single rod connected directly to the pushrod.

Materials 1x8 - 8ft common board - frame Drywall screws 1 1/2" 12v 500w 300rpm DC electric motor high torque (this is slightly under powered) 12v~ power supply DC motor speed controller 6ft wire 16g 4wire 3ft~ wire 16g 2wire with wall plug 4 - M4 1.5" screws with nuts - motor mount 5/8" thick, 6" diameter aluminum disc - flywheel 4 - M4 1" screws with nuts - flywheel mount 8mm hub flange with set screws - to mount flywheel as a set ( 2 - 8mm x 400mm linear rods, 4 - 8mm linear bearings in mounts 4 - 8mm linear rod mount brackets) 16 - M4 1.25" screws - bearing mounts 50pk - #12 x 3/4" hex head metal screws 12mm x 1000mm linear rod 4 - 12mm linear rod mount brackets 12mm hub flange with set screws 4" pvc pipe end cap - suction cup base 2 - 3/8" rod end bearings 3/8-24tpi 2' threaded rod 3/8-24tpi 3/8 x 2" hex bolt 3/8 x 1 1/4" hex bolt 3 - 3/8 hex nut 2 - 3/8 washers 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" metal U bracket Gorilla Glue

Tools used Mitre saw or table/circular saw (if making wood frame) Drill (preferably drill press) 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", & 3/8" carbide drill bits 1 7/8" hole saw drill bit (or diameter of your motor) Sandpaper Angle grinder w metal cutting wheel Screw drivers Pliers Common socket wrench set Wire cutter / stripper Drawing compass

How to Step 1 Base Board - Firstly you need to cut the base (bottom) board for the frame, we know it'll be 7 1/2" wide because that's how wide the board is, to determine the length add together the length needed for your linear bearing rails with their brackets and the diameter of your flywheel, then round up by an inch or two to give yourself breathing room. Mine is 24"

Step 2 Bearing Board - Cut a board for your linear rods to mount to, my rods are 400mm long which is just shy of 16" so I left about a 1/4 spare on either side and cut my bearing board to 16 1/4"

Step 3 Motor Board - (if your motor has its own mount stand skip this step) Cut a board for your motor to mount to, my flywheel is 6" in diameter so I needed bigger than that, so I subtracted the 16 1/4" bearing board length from the 24" base board length and cut my motor board to 7 3/4"

Step 4 Cutting the hole to mount your motor (if you have a larger motor that has its own mount skip this step) Measure the diameter of your motor and use a hole saw drill bit to cut this hole, or a jigsaw if need be. Cutting the hole slightly bigger than the diameter of your motor, I used a 1 7/8" hole saw *You can adjust how high up you center your motor vertically as long as your flywheel has clearance. My flywheel is 6" in diameter so it's center point needs to be more than 3" above my base board, I measured up 3 1/2" *It should also be this same distance horizontally from the back of the base board, so again I measured 3 1/2" in from the right (back) and cut my hole centered on the intersection of 3 1/2" x 3 1/2"

Step 5 Sand the rough edges of your boards

Step 6 Mount your motor into the Motor Board by fitting the motor into the hole, use a marker to trace its mounting bracket and the holes to drill. Drill the holes and bolt the motor down with machine screws and nuts.

Step 7 Flywheel template (see image) - Use paper and a drawing compass make a template of your flywheel, and find the exact center point.

Here we are making the pushrod holes, this will determine how far the machine thrusts. Use a ruler to divide the template into 8 equal parts. We'll be making 3/8" holes so the furthest hole edge should be atleast 1/4" ( 3/16" for middle of 3/8" hole) from the outside edge of your flywheel 6" flywheel, measure inward 7/16" makes this hole thrust length 5 1/2" On the next line measure out 2 1/2" from the center Next line 2 1/4" Next line 2" 1 3/4" 1 1/2" 1 1/4" 1" These will give you 2"~5 1/2" Thrusting length

Poke a hole through the paper at center point and the center of the measurements around the template, use the template to transfer marks onto the flywheel.

Step 8 Drilling the flywheel - *My motor has a driveshaft that is 8mm diameter and a D type shaft (meaning it is round with 1 flat side), so I purchased 8mm hub flange (see image) with set screws to mount the flywheel to the motor.

Center the 8mm hub on your flywheels center mark, trace the hub and its mounting holes, using a drill press drill the mounting holes into the flywheel with a 3/16" drillbit (size may vary) Using a 3/8" drillbit drill the holes for the push rod.

Step 9 Mounting the flywheel - Using M4 screws and nuts bolt the 8mm hub flange to the flywheel through the 4 3/16" holes.

Place a 3/8" x 2" hex bolt through one of the 3/8" pushrod holes in the flywheel, secure it with 3/8" washer and Hex Nut.

Mount the hub and flywheel to the motor drive shaft securing the set screws to the flat side of the driveshaft and the opposing set screw with an Allen key.

Step 10 Attach Motor Board to Base Board *We want to measure the distance from the face of the motor board that the motor is sticking out of, to the tip of the 3/8" x 2" hex bolt that we'll mount the push rod to. Mine was slightly more than 3" so I rounded up to 4" and measured in from the side of my baseboard, mark a line, drill 1/8" pilot holes and secure together with 1 1/2" drywall

Step 11 Thrust Cart Board (see image) the size is dependant on the size of bearings and rod brackets you purchase. I placed my bearings 1/4" in from each corner 2 top and 2 bottom with enough space for a row of rod brackets for my 12mm thrust rod between top and bottom bearings. So mine in 6" wide and 5" tall. See the Thrust cart template image for placement.

Put the linear rods through the 2 bearings top and bottom while tracing for placement to ensure they are inline and parallel, trace mounts and mark holes for drilling. Drill bearing mount holes with 3/16" drill bit (slightly bigger than M4 screws to allow for adjustment)

With 8mm linear rods in the bearings slowly tighten the mounting screws down.

Step 12 Attach linear rods to Bearing Board - attach the 8mm rod brackets to the ends of your 8mm linear rods and lightly snug the set screw. Your rods should be about 1/4" shorter on each side than your Bearing Board so mark those side line for placement.

As for vertical placement of rod brackets this should line up horizontally with the height of your flywheel center point, so measure up and mark a line level with the center of the flywheel.

Ensure brackets are level and perpendicular to each other centered on the flywheel height and secure 8mm brackets hex head metal screws.

Step 13 Mounting Thrust Rod to Thrust Cart - put all (I used 4) 12mm mount brackets onto the 12mm thrust rod, center in the middle of the bearings mount screws, check for level, secure with hex head screws

Step 14 attaching the Bearing Board to the Base Board - as you did with the Motor Board you need to measure in from the side of the Base Board, your focal point of alignment is lining up where the Pushrod will sit on the flywheel bolt and lining that up on the base board with the end on the Thrust Cart.

*I can't give you the math cause your machine will probably differ from mine

Align your Thrust Cart with your pushrod bolt on the flywheel, drill 1/8" pilot holes and secure with Drywall screws.

Step 15 Making and Attaching pushrod *the push rod is what attachs the flywheel to the thrust cart, and is made of 2 rod end bearings and a threaded rod

First we need something to connect the push rod to the thrust cart, I used a U shaped bracket with 3/8" holes and a 3/8" x 1 1/4" bolt and nut. Sure this to the end of the thrust cart facing the flywheel with hexhead screws (see images) *I made the bracket out of scrap stainless steel, bent it and drilled the 3/8" holes, but I'm sure a hardware store has one.

Now we need to know how long to make the push rod, so place the push bolt in the outermost 3/8" hole on your flywheel and rotate the flywheel so this bolt in at the top peak of its rotation (think North).

Next center the middle of the thrust cart to the very middle of its linear rods (200mm if rods are 400mm long)

Place the 3/8" x 1 1/4" bolt though the holes of the U shaped bracket on the thrust cart.

Measure the distance from the center of the 3/8" bolt in the U bracket to the center of the 3/8" bolt in the flywheel.

This is how long the threaded rod with the 3/8" rod end bearings on each end needs to be.

Mine is 7 1/2" total from rod end bearing to rod end bearing, needing 6 1/4" of threaded rod connecting them

Cut the threaded rod to your measurement with an angle grinder metal cutting wheel, connect the rod and rod end bearing to complete the pushrod.

Connect the pushrod to flywheel and thrustcart with the 3/8" bolts and nuts

Step 16 end of thrust rod adapter - for this I used a 12mm hub flange with set screws and glued a 4" pvc pipe end cap to the flange. The flat surface provides ample space and grip for most suction cup based sex toys to hold firm. It has smooth curved edges for comfort, and a strong surface for a backing plate.

*Though I will be making other connector options in the future.

Allow Gorilla Glue to firm up, tighten set screws in hub to thrust rod end.

ALMOST DONE!!!

Step 17 Wiring and power - Mount your power supply to the backside of the Bearing Board, using metal screws.

*if you need help learning wiring there are many helpful videos out there to explain the basics, and this is a very basic wiring project, though I can't go into every detail of how to understand wiring.

**Since I can't guess what color wires you'll be using I'll just refer to them by numbers

Connect 16gauge-2wire with a wall plug on one end, Connect wire 1 to L "Live Wire" on power supply Connect wire 2 to N "Neutral Wire" on power supply

(I cut the power wire off an old drill that no longer worked and used that since it was already 2 wire insulated and had a plug)

On your 6ft of 16gauge-4wire strip away enough outer plastic to expose enough of the 4 inner wires so that 2 can reach your power supply and 2 can reach the prongs on the back of your motor.

Connect wire 1 from V on power supply to V IN on speed control Connect wire 2 from V- on power supply to V- IN on speed control Connect wire 3 from V OUT on speed control to V on motor Connect wire 4 from V- OUT on speed control to V- on motor

That's it, plug it in and test it, then enjoy.

LASTLY: what I learned in the build process, changes I plan to make, things I should have considered now that I have the foresight of finishing.

Deciding on a motor first, there are tons of options available but we're not looking for 5500rpm or torque that can pull a truck out of a ditch.

I would recommend 12~24volts DC 200~500rpm max High torque specified

My motor is a little low on torque for this type of machine, the motor bogs down under resistance from position or clenching. The speed is fine, certainly faster than I am capable of throwing hips for an extended period of time.

The frame I used wood because it's easy to work with, cutting, drilling and changing if I needed to adjust something. I will probably redesign this machine from an aluminum plate 1/4~5/16" or similar in its next version.

The Flywheel I ordered 6" aluminum bar 5/8" thick from an ebay seller, what I got was 5 3/4" bar 3/4" thick. It is quite hefty and cumbersome and probably playing a role in why the motor is over taxed in torque and bogging down. I would probably get 7" x 1/4~3/8" next time and may look into other lighter weight materials.

Thrust rod 1000mm is waaaaay to long I cut it down to around 700mm and that's probably still 100mm too long

Better Preplanning At the time I was gathering materials I was like yeah 12mm thrust rod that'll work, and it does BUT I'm finding it impossible to rig a different end piece to this rod, I'd like to use air tool hose quick connect fittings to attach things like Vac-U-Lock plugs to it, and be able to change tips, but nothing works with 12mm easily and I didn't have the foresight to think to have the end of the rod threaded, because my harbor freight tap & dye kit sure isn't going to be able to cut threads into this hardened bar.

Buy compatable materials Those 3/8" rod end bearings use a 3/8-24tpi (threads per inch) threaded bar.... not a common size and not something you can find at a local hardware store

Stick with common sizes my rebuild will be all 1/4" and 3/8" everything if I can get it, and pre threaded ends for all rods.

Honest overall review of my work and the end result machine 6.5/10 works well, far better than anything else for sale within $600 of my build cost

Next version goals: Look better More streamline Lighter weight Probably shrink by 25% in overall size Increase power 25% Increase thrust length 1.5~2" (throw)

Build adjustable height/angle stand

Tell me your thoughts, I'll try to respond to questions and comments promptly

Thanks for reading, Wynken