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Replacing a VATS ignition cylinder.
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My last car died in November, and I was in a bind. Needed wheels fast, and had an extremely limited budget. By an insane stroke of luck, I was practically given a '95 Cadillac Deville 4.9L V8 (not a Northstar) in remarkably good condition for its age. Had to do a bit of work on the passenger side suspension, and replace the water pump, but otherwise you'd never guess it was a 25 year old car (save for the fuel economy).

However, the ignition has been giving me some grief, and from the scant research I've done it seems to be due to the ignition cylinder and/or key being worn out, so the anti-theft system doesn't always get a good read on the key pellet/resistor.

This seems like a pretty easy fix:

  1. Read the resistance on my key, check against the listed range of resistances in the factory service manual (I have that, just haven't given it a thorough read yet other than to perform the repairs the car needed to be roadworthy)
  2. Buy a VATS blank of the same rating.
  3. Install a new ignition cylinder, and have the blank cut to match the dummy key that comes with the new ignition.
  4. Enjoy my soon-to-be-classic Cadillac.

Is there any integral step in the process I'm missing? From what I understand the anti-theft system is built into the cluster panel, and it's all programmed to look for a certain resistance from the key, so there isn't some kind of strange anti-theft reprogramming song and dance I have to do once the new cylinder is installed, is there?

EDIT: I'm aware that you can bypass the VATS under the dash, but I'd rather just replace the ignition cylinder if it's not a big hassle.

EDIT 2: Well, shit, I'm over-complicating things for myself. Turns out there are aftermarket sellers that pair ignitions and specific VATS code keys to-order. I'll just leave the post up in-case anyone searches for this topic.

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4 years ago