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Spotting Dynos
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Hello climbergirls!

I'm a pretty static climber (and mostly a rope climber), but I'm working on training power and getting more bouldering time in. I'm noticing that I actually have a hard time reading/spotting dynos: I'll do a static move that makes something two grades harder than it needs to be, and then see someone pogo on through and realize that that never even occurred to me. Do you all have any dyno-specific reading tips (beyond just watching other people and thiefing their beta...)?

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Do more dynos, even when they're wildly unnecessary! If you look at boulders planning to do them, you'll get used to trying to see them, and then you'll start seeing them when they're set to be there deliberately :) Because you're talking about power I'm guessing this is mostly just on overhanging walls, so say there's a move that is a reach and could be a powerful lockoff or a deep twist/drop knee, make yourself jump to the hold even though there's beta that probably feels more natural and instinctive to you :)

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3 months ago